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Think You Can't Arrow A Gobbler...Think Again
                                                                       by HVS Member Hartstruk

  Archers and turkey hunters when you put your shotgun sights on a wise old gobbler and pull the trigger do you ever wonder if you could have taken him with your bow? If you have but didnít think you could I want to tell you that if I can do it you can too.



Hunting turkeys with bow and arrow obviously requires different equipment compared to hunting with shotgun but also requires some different tactics to bring a gobbler in close for a clean ethical kill. Putting an arrow through turkeyís vitals is like hitting softball inside a medicine ball, not an easy task. If you are looking for something to hone your archery skills than you have to give this a try. You will find yourself spending more time in the woods and hunting harder but when it all comes together and you have a bird on the ground you will be hooked and will not want to hunt turkeys any other way.

Setup

Two essential aspects for archery hunting turkeys are portable ground blinds and decoys. You need to bring the birds in as close as possible and i recommend setting up for an 8-10 yard shot. This may sound too close to bring in a tom but with the combination of a good blind and realistic decoy set its actually easier than it sounds. Believe it or not when you are hunting turkeys this way it is very similar to the way you want to hunt whitetails. With the added task of setting up a blind and decoys ďrunning and gunningĒ tactics that are done with shotgun become a lot harder and sometimes impossible to do. Look to harvest your bird near travel routes and preferred feeding and strutting areas. If you have a particular roosting area and you can setup your blind the day before your hunt it would be a good idea to do so. This will give you the ability to sneak in without spooking roosted birds.

Portable Ground Blinds



Wild turkeys have exceptional eye sight and hearing and can detect danger in a second but when it comes to recognizing ground blinds they are clueless. You can actually set up a blind in the middle of a field with a couple of decoys in front of it and they donít even notice it. When drawing your bow inside a portable blind virtually all of your movement is hidden from the birds. Even reaching for calls or just plain stretching your legs will not be seen. Remember you are going to bring the birds in close so you need to be able to hide all movement. One other advantage to a blind is that when it is raining you can still hunt and be dry.
 
 When choosing a portable ground blind look for one that is called a hub style blind. Primos makes a great selection of this style blind. These type of blinds setup in just seconds are very strong and collapse into the same shape each time. This is a plus because when you need to put it back into its carrying bag it will fit. Also look for blinds that have black material on the inside.The color black makes it very hard for birds to notice your outline. Another important feature to look for is large opening windows. To be able to shoot your bow comfortably and accurately you need to have large openings in the blind. Donít forget a comfortable chair because when you are in a portable ground blind you donít have to sit on the ground.

Decoys



There are many turkey decoys on the market and i know that turkey hunters have been successful with just about every combination in terms of make, type and number to use. To make things simple start out with a tom full strut and a submissive hen.The combination of this decoy set seems to drive the tomís crazy. To make your decoys more realistic replace the fan that comes with the full strut tom with a real turkey fan.These are easy to make by removing the fan from the next tom that you shoot. A good tip that i learned is to take an old fishing reel and wrap the line several times around the body of the tom decoy. Pull out enough line to reach your blind and put the reel inside. When you want to give the decoy movement just pull or wind the line with the reel and the decoy will move making it look real. Always place the decoys facing the blind. Turkeys will always come in and try to get in front of the decoys to display their dominance. This will put the bird with its back to the blind giving you a great opportunity to draw your bow. Remember always place your decoyís 8-10 yards from your blind

Broadheads

For body shots keep in mind that the birds feathers are thick, tough and do protect the bird to a certain point. Fixed blade broadheads work good but i think that large diameter cut mechanical heads are the way to go. When you see the anatomy diagrams of a turkey you will know what i mean.Give yourself the best chance at putting the bird down and if you are skeptical of mechanical heads for deer you can be confident  that these heads are almost perfectly matched to take on a big ole tom. Trophy Ridge,NAP and Grim Reaper are good examples of  great large diameter cut broadheads.

Head shots are becoming popular with the introduction of great broadheads that are made just for this purpose. A couple of good points that are making these shots common are when aiming at the head you know exactly where the kill zone is compared to body shots that take some time studying anatomy diagrams to know right where to aim. Magnus and Arrowdynamic Solutions make broadheads specifically for head shots.

Shot placement

Anyone that has killed turkeys with a shotgun will tell you how hard it can be to put these birds down so you can imagine what it takes to bag them with your bow. The best advise i can give other than practicing shooting before the season at close range is to study turkey anatomy diagrams which you can find online.






* Spring Turkey Hunting - Call selection

Why do I carry different calls in my turkey vest?
by Don Mattice (Dr. Honk)
The answer is quite simple. There are days when one call will get  toms fired up and other days when you use your favorite call and do not get one response.
That does not mean the turkeys have left the area. They are still around, just not responding to the call you have selected.
I recall this first happening about 10 years ago. I was hunting a small wood lot near my home. There was a light mist in the air as I set out my single hen decoy  I put a diaphram call in my mouth and and ran a series of yelps. I would wait about five minutes and then begin the series again, adding some clucks and purrs. I continued this pattern for about 40 minutes. Nothing was responding. I had a few more hours to hunt so I decided to wait it out in that small patch of woods. I thought I would switch it up a little and practice with a slate call I had brought along.
I tried scratching out some turkey sounds but all I could get from the damp slate were some very faint yelps. To me they were barely audible but a tom exploded with a thunderous gobble about twenty yards away. I scratched out another yelp and the gobbler came in like he was on a string. I killed him at 10 steps.

The Diaphram Call




This call is the most difficult  to master but offers the advantage of hands free calling. The diaphram allows you to make those  seductive yelps or clucks to close that gobbler without spooking the bird with hand movement.
There are two basic types of diaphram calls, clear calls and raspy calls. Clear calls are meant to sound like young hens. They are configured with single or multiple reeds. When I first began turkey hinting,I started out using this style of call (Quaker Boy Pro triple) and killed a lot of gobblers.
There were times when I could get a gobbler to answer me on the roost but as soon as he hit the ground, that old boss hen would lead him in the opposite direction. I wanted to put a little rasp in my calling to mimic her but could not figure out how to accomplish this. It was not until several years later that I discovered there were calls designed to be raspy.
Raspy calls are constructed with a top reed that has a cut of some shape and additional uncut reeds below. My favorite "go to" call is a HS Strut split V ll, lll or lV. I have killed the majority of my 83 gobblers using this call.

The Box Call




This call is one of the easiest calls to use. It is very popular with  hunters that are just starting out or for the seasoned veteran that prefers this style call. I carry one of these calls in my vest and use it when I am trying to locate a late morning gobbler or when I can not get a response using my diaphram call.
The important thing to learn when using a box call or other style call  is cadence. Cadence is the rhythm of a call. The next time you are in the field, listen to the sounds of a real hen and try to duplicate those sounds.

The "Slate" Call



Also known as the peg and pot, this call produces some very realistic turkey sounds. You will need to practice some with this call as it is a little more difficult to use than the box call. The original calls were made with a slate surface on top of a sound chamber. Sounds are produced by scratching a striker on the surface of the slate. Today's modern calls have surfaces made of slate, glass, aluminum or composite materials.

The three style calls mentioned above are the most widely used. There are other calls available such as the wing bone yelper and a tube call.
I have made several wing bone yelpers over the past few years and plan on using one this coming spring to call in a gobbler.

* Spring Turkey Hunting - Decoy selection and set ups

by Don Mattice (Dr. Honk)

The use of turkey decoys has definitely helped hunters put more spring gobblers on the table. While some states do not allow the use of decoys, New York happens to be one that does.

The Beginning

My obsession with turkey hunting began in the late 1960's in Delaware County. My grandfather, Ford Mattice, had ~ 100 acres of land that consisted of hardwoods, evergreens, fields, swamps and ponds. All the ingredients needed to raise quality whitetails and to my surprise, the elusive Eastern wild turkey.
There were not alot of turkeys or turkey hunters in Northern NY at that time. I had read some articles on how to hunt  these birds but I had no one to hunt with that had been a successful turkey harvester. Everything I learned was buy trial and error. In the beginning, it was more error  but I learned enough to kill my first gobbler (a jake) in my second season of hunting. I have been totally addicted ever since.

The Early Years

In those early years I did not use or even know they made turkey decoys. I had harvested a few birds with out the use of any fakes but I was not killing gobblers every season. It wasn't until a decade  later that I purchased my first decoy. It was a hard body Carrylite Tom/Hen type of decoy that had the head and body of a gobbler but did not have a beard. I thought this was a little strange but I didn't know any different.
I was excited with my purchase as I felt that I had found the key that would make me a more successful and consistent turkey slayer. I have to tell you that I did not kill one gobbler using that new decoy. It seemed to scare the birds rather than draw them closer. Something needed to change. I figured since Toms come to hens, I needed a decoy that looked more like a hen than a Tom. In those days I had limited funds and could not afford to buy a different decoy. So, I gave the one I had a make over with a new paint job.
The following spring, I began to have better success with my new "girl" decoy. Not necessarily with long beards, but I was able to call in jakes with regularity.

Over the years I have purchased several different types and styles of turkey decoys. I would like to share what has worked for me and what has not worked.......... so far.

Buckwing Jake and Hen



This combo is my favorite "go to" set up for spring gobblers. I have killed more mature long beards hunting over this pair than any other set up in my arsenal. The reason, mature gobblers do not like the thought of a jake trying to steal their lady friends. Most of the time they will charge in and head right for the jake decoy, size it up, and try to run it off. If the jake does not initially move, they will do their best to spur the heck out of their opponent. It is at this point in the hunt you should introduce Mr. Gobbler to your favorite turkey load.
For decoy placement, I adjust the stake on my hen decoy to be lower than the jake. I plant the jake in a position following the hen with about 5 feet in between decoys. The purpose - when a gobbler comes in, he can circle the jake without bumping into the hen. I have also set up with the hen and jake facing each other with some success but prefer the first set up. If I am field hunting, the decoys are out about 35 yards. In open hardwoods, I usually have them about 20 yards out.

Buckwing Multiple Hens



I have had instances where mature gobblers would come to the edge of the field, look over the hen and jake set up and not come any closer. I believe these Toms have done battle with jakes in the past and are intimidated. The next time I hunt these gobblers, I leave the jake in the truck and add one or two additional hens.
In a three hen set up, I use two upright decoys and a feeding decoy with a motion head. The feeding hen decoy has a very realistic head movement but you need to use this in short grass of cut corn fields as it is difficult to view in taller grass.
I place the decoys about 5 yards apart in random positions. The spacing between  decoys is very important if you want a realistic look. Hens do not like to feed close to each other. If you observe wild birds in the field, you will notice this. They will also purr when they feed. The purr lets the other hens know when they are getting too close.

Primos B-Mobile Gobbler / Hens



I purchased a B-Mobile full strut gobbler decoy several years ago. This decoy is supposed to mimic a mature gobbler that has wandered into a boss gobbler's territory. It has a very realistic look, especially when used with a real turkey tail.
The decoy comes standard with a silk fan and a foldable plastic device that has slots for adding real turkey feathers.
The set up I use consists of two hens, one feeder and one upright, and B-Mobile positioned behind the hens. I always place the strutting decoy facing me. I have not used this combo very often and to date I have not harvested a gobbler over this set up.....Yet.
I believe if I used this combination more often, I would be successful. I just do not have the same degree of confidence with this set up versus the hen and jake set up.
Who knows, maybe this coming spring will be the year B-Mobile earns his keep.












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